Skip to content

Mattehorn

If you are a full time mountaineer, in 1 year Matterhorn should be fine. But if you are a city dweller and a beginner mountaineer, 1 year goal for Matterhorn is not realistic. You should set your sights on learning and trying out other easier peaks like those in Monte Rosa, Gran Paradiso, even Mt Blanc is easier because its not technical. This will give you and understanding of how your body deals with altitude and what gear works for you etc

For Matterhorn, you need to be comfortable climbing on crampons on rock / ice mix terrain towards the upper part of the Matterhorn which is not easily trained for except for climbing other similar mountains with that terrain.

climbing anchors

Most people don’t bring trad gear for the matterhorn. There’s a shit ton of fixed pro and you really just need to know how to clip and clean

I only really used the cams I brought to complement the stakes when our rope didn’t stretch fully between them and we were simulclimbing.

practice mountains

Alpspitze
Monte Rosa, Gran Paradiso, even Mt Blanc

https://www.reddit.com/r/Mountaineering/comments/152xr6b/should_i_climb_matterhorn_as_an_absolute_beginner